![]() ![]() The lower the number, the harsher the grain of the paper, so most shops will start at 80-grit, stepping up to 240, then 400, 600 and sometimes, even 800-grit, before the car is ready to be painted.ĭepending on the paint you've chosen, your bill for materials can be huge or unbelieveable. Once the bodywork is repaired and sealed it needs to be sanded through a range of different grits of sandpaper. ![]() ![]() Modern plastic body fillers (also known as ‘bondo’, ‘bog’, ‘mud’, and in some cases ‘the talent-replacer instead of doing proper panel beating’) provide even better adhesion and pliability. Think of it like trying to paint a sand pit by painting over rust or old, flaky paint and clear coat. Rust, grease and other impurities hiding under the new paint will cause it to have poor adhesion, which is a fancy way of saying the paint won’t stick properly. Marty recently had his new 1999 WRX STi painted (as you can see HERE) as it had 20 years worth of dings and scratches on it, but even though it wasn't a crusty, rusty old nugget (like a certain Mira they cut in half in Japan) it still needed plenty of work to make it mad.īasically, if the car's panels aren't straight and properly aligned, then your shiny paint job will look uglier than a drop-kicked kebab.Īny paint job needs the right surface texture to bond to, as paint requires a chemical adhesion to the lower layers. This is why it costs so much you’re paying someone to devote weeks of their life to the job of fixing years of car park dings, rust, and old paint. Getting a mad new coat of paint is one of the ultimate boogeymen to conquer when working on old nuggets, as getting a perfect shine on ruler-straight panels takes hundreds of hours of hard work to achieve. The old saying goes “time is money” and there is no better example of this than when you get a car painted. ![]()
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